nat, i hope you are kidding me that your about to super glue up your chain. now most superglues would bond the joint, and you would have a acrilic plastic in the joint and it wouldn't have the joint moveablility which a joint was designed to have.
New chain on 30th Nov... 0.5% stretch by 1000 miles ... 0.75% by 1240 miles ...1.0% by 1370 miles. So even if I'd been unlucky enough to start with a longish chain (and therefore got to 0.5% earlier than expected), this chain seems to have carried on wearing quickly - unusually quickly? Or maybe it does accelerate beyond a certain point? Who knows (and does anyone care)?
I can't be sure of why I didn't get many miles out of it, but that chain's been retired today and I'm going to try something other than Stealth on the next one.
Hmmm, does sound like ineffective lube with excessive wear at the pins. Interestingly chains don't Stretch. That is they don't get longer because the plates stretch in a "plastic" sort of way but rather get longer because the metal to metal interface between the pins and rollers becomes worn and slightly ovalised. So too much degreasing cleans all lube out of the metal to metal parts and if it isn't replaced well maybe accelerates wear?
Also occurred to me that my cassette might be a bit worn - think that might cause the chain to wear faster? Haven't road-tested the new chain yet, but my fingers are crossed that the Millook (with shiny new shifter as well now - thank you SRAM) is back to dream-machine status (well, in my mind anyway!)
My Ultegra chain is about 3 years old now and is making clicking noises as it runs over the front big ring. I have bought a replacement and will let you know if it quietens things down.
i have also bought some Phil's Tenacious Oil and will report on this when i have been able to evaluate.
tim i would dissagree with you there, if your chain is dirty-you dont degrease your chain then you would havefine grit and wear our sprokets, chainrings and chain at an acceleraed rate. jane what condition are your chain rings or cassettes
The lubricant needs to be at the interface between the pin and the inner links. These rotate (articulate) relative to the pin, and not the outer links. Too much cleaning could wash this away or the fluid remaining there might be some emulsion of cleaning solution and oil - not a good lubricant. Some motor cycle chains (which always run 'in line') have 'o' rings to retain the lubricant in this region. Not possible for bike chains due to weight but also bike chains need to bend a bit laterally to run on non in-line sprockets and chain wheel. This flex will mean that a small gap will open between the inner and outer links - allowing dirt in. This makes me think that perhaps chains should be cleaned in an 'in line' state (gaps closed). Then when very clean and dry relubricated in a laterally bend shape to allow fresh clean lubricant into the small reservoir formed at the end of inner links and the pin.
I'm going to have to make some diagrams! In meantime listen to Tom LINK He's a real chain enthusiast (and somewhat a dish).
Jon highlights another wear mechanism of a dirty chain on the sprockets and this is indeed another good reason to maintain good chain hygene. However I think Tim is onto something here; too agressive chain cleaning could be detrimental to effective lubrication of the pin to inner link interface.
I propose Jon, Tim and I disassemble our chains at the end of the season and make an assessment!
It is logical for chain wear to accelerate as once some wear has started it will allow more dirt in. Perhaps this is what Jane has observed.
I judge a worn sprocket by the presence of a small burr on the driven side of the tooth.
I've only once had to change the chain on my summer bike and that one lasted over 4000 miles Back then, I'd been looking after my drivetrain the way my dad taught us - wipe clean after every ride, apply Sturmey Archer oil to chain, turn the cranks for a bit and wipe clean again, then make 2nd application of oil and wipe off the excess. (I didn't even know what degreaser was, but I suppose we'd been using oil to flush out dirt, as well as to lubricate) Same logic applies to cleaning hands after DIY/bike maintenance ... you can scrub with soap/wash-up liquid/Swarfega, or just massage hands with something oily like E45 Emollient Wash (great for eczema sufferers) - far more effective IMO and better for skin too. OK chains are made of metal, not skin, but as Tim pointed out, it might be better to leave the deep-seated lube exactly where it is and concentrate on v regular cleaning of the outer surfaces - to stop the grime working its way in? BTW Millook road-tested fine:) Can't see any sign of wear on the cassette (but I'm no expert)
I've just put a new chain and cassette on my race bike. So am I right in thinking that instead of degreaser I should just soak it in salt water followed by smearing it with a mixture of vaseline and sand? Repeating that process once every 500 miles.
Also, somebody told me that you go faster if you have the chain on the big ring and biggest sprocket and small ring and smallest sprocket whenever you can? The grating whirring noise is a sign of strength, speed and will make you lose weight. It makes your bike lighter too and it's more aero.
Jane loctite has a beter solution to just use soap.
loctite SF7850
Your benefits
Natural extract base Free from mineral oils Biodegradable Contains premium skin conditioners Works with or without water Removes ground-in dirt, grease, grime, and oil
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Ladies mag! : )))
New chain on 30th Nov... 0.5% stretch by 1000 miles ... 0.75% by 1240 miles ...1.0% by 1370 miles. So even if I'd been unlucky enough to start with a longish chain (and therefore got to 0.5% earlier than expected), this chain seems to have carried on wearing quickly - unusually quickly? Or maybe it does accelerate beyond a certain point? Who knows (and does anyone care)?
I can't be sure of why I didn't get many miles out of it, but that chain's been retired today and I'm going to try something other than Stealth on the next one.
So too much degreasing cleans all lube out of the metal to metal parts and if it isn't replaced well maybe accelerates wear?
Haven't road-tested the new chain yet, but my fingers are crossed that the Millook (with shiny new shifter as well now - thank you SRAM) is back to dream-machine status (well, in my mind anyway!)
i have also bought some Phil's Tenacious Oil and will report on this when i have been able to evaluate.
I'm going to have to make some diagrams! In meantime listen to Tom LINK He's a real chain enthusiast (and somewhat a dish).
Jon highlights another wear mechanism of a dirty chain on the sprockets and this is indeed another good reason to maintain good chain hygene. However I think Tim is onto something here; too agressive chain cleaning could be detrimental to effective lubrication of the pin to inner link interface.
I propose Jon, Tim and I disassemble our chains at the end of the season and make an assessment!
It is logical for chain wear to accelerate as once some wear has started it will allow more dirt in. Perhaps this is what Jane has observed.
I judge a worn sprocket by the presence of a small burr on the driven side of the tooth.
I NEVER degrease my chains, and get around 4000 miles in road use. About double that from a Centaur cassette.
Back then, I'd been looking after my drivetrain the way my dad taught us - wipe clean after every ride, apply Sturmey Archer oil to chain, turn the cranks for a bit and wipe clean again, then make 2nd application of oil and wipe off the excess. (I didn't even know what degreaser was, but I suppose we'd been using oil to flush out dirt, as well as to lubricate)
Same logic applies to cleaning hands after DIY/bike maintenance ... you can scrub with soap/wash-up liquid/Swarfega, or just massage hands with something oily like E45 Emollient Wash (great for eczema sufferers) - far more effective IMO and better for skin too. OK chains are made of metal, not skin, but as Tim pointed out, it might be better to leave the deep-seated lube exactly where it is and concentrate on v regular cleaning of the outer surfaces - to stop the grime working its way in?
BTW Millook road-tested fine:) Can't see any sign of wear on the cassette (but I'm no expert)
Also, somebody told me that you go faster if you have the chain on the big ring and biggest sprocket and small ring and smallest sprocket whenever you can? The grating whirring noise is a sign of strength, speed and will make you lose weight. It makes your bike lighter too and it's more aero.
Have I got that right?
obviously it's difficult with all your other life commitments to keep it as pristine as this, so noone will judge
loctite SF7850
Your benefits
Natural extract base
Free from mineral oils
Biodegradable
Contains premium skin conditioners
Works with or without water
Removes ground-in dirt, grease, grime, and oil