Tom, I use my sisters nail varnish remover... I guess you could use that for glue removal to. It's probably cheaper to get it from somewhere like halfords or a car shop (painters use it to clean a surface). I'd soften it with acetone the scrape off with a plastic putty knife (careful not to take off decals with the acetone).
I agree, just clean off the gnarly bits with acetone and scotchbrite pad, otherwise the more glue the better as far as I am concerned.
For a really dirty rim (such you'd get if you rolled your tub and rode for some distance in dirt on the rim) take a clincher tyre (see they do have uses) pull it over the rim and then pour some acetone in. Leave to stand, and rotate quarter of a turn every couple of hours or so for a day or two. That should dissolve most, then scotchbrite the rest.
we should have a tub information / appreciation night at some point. keynotes on the latest research, demonstrations, product testing, get-your-nails-done-with-cca-varnish stand
maybe a stand at the ashwell festival of cycling, for all those members of public who would be thrilled to learn of the wonders of tubs
The Crr will be slightly worse, but there is also the aero and the handling to take into consideration. If you look at the links to data that's on the thread you're talking about a maximum of maybe 2w worth of Crr per wheel between 21&23mm of the same tyre. It also makes a difference if it's for front or rear use.
i seem to remember Continental sell their Attack/Force clinchers as a combo of 21 front and 23 rear. i think any potential build up of glue on the rim needs to be taken into account....
Continental has no place on a tub thread, unless it's their track ones. The modern fashion is now to run wider tubs and wider rims for less aerodynamic and rolling resistance.
You may remember a Discovery Channel program entitled "The Science of Lance Armstrong", detailing his preparation for the Tour De France. One segment focused on Armstrong's lead mechanic--Julien Devries, a Belgian well known in pro cycling circles. Devries had a practice of aging all of Lance's tubular tires in a root cellar. Many dismissed this practice as a waste of time; nevertheless, Armstrong, known for turning over ever stone in search of that final edge, made sure all his race tires came from "the cellar'!
Though not really effective for vulcanized tubular tires (Vulcanized tires use high heat to melt the tire tread onto the casing). If the treads are vulcanized, the rubber compound is most likely high in sulfur content, which does not really cure. Consequently, there is no improvement from storage, and these tires are best used as soon as possible.
However, more expensive tubulars are constructed in a different manner--the treads are not vulcanized to the casing; instead, the treads are hand glued to the tire casing. The high grade rubber compounds found in these tubulars do improve with age, and as the rubber dries out a bit (cures), it doesn't reduce the suppleness meaningfully, but does dramatically improve the cut and puncture resistance of the tire, which in turn, increases tire life.
The trick to aging is to remove the tire from manufacturer's packing box, inflate to approximately half the rated capacity and let hang in a dark, climate controlled environment (think wine cellar) for at least 60 days.
Comments
It's probably cheaper to get it from somewhere like halfords or a car shop (painters use it to clean a surface).
I'd soften it with acetone the scrape off with a plastic putty knife (careful not to take off decals with the acetone).
Are you trying to tell us something? are you sure you haven't been painting your nails! :-)
If the remaining glue is even and not lumpy or too thick or contaminated with bits of base tape you can leave it and just put more on top.
For a really dirty rim (such you'd get if you rolled your tub and rode for some distance in dirt on the rim) take a clincher tyre (see they do have uses) pull it over the rim and then pour some acetone in. Leave to stand, and rotate quarter of a turn every couple of hours or so for a day or two. That should dissolve most, then scotchbrite the rest.
Clear nail varnish is good for minor carbon fibre repairs.
maybe a stand at the ashwell festival of cycling, for all those members of public who would be thrilled to learn of the wonders of tubs
Shelton seven bellies
But this doesn't take into account the aerodynamics of the wheel/tyre which can be greater than the difference between tyres.
I have had better results with this than acetone - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/181309253550?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95
bonjour from france
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/vittoria-corsa-evo-cx-tubular-tyre/
Discounted to £34.50 (RRP £69)
The modern fashion is now to run wider tubs and wider rims for less aerodynamic and rolling resistance.
Aging Tubular Tires
You may remember a Discovery Channel program entitled "The Science of Lance Armstrong", detailing his preparation for the Tour De France. One segment focused on Armstrong's lead mechanic--Julien Devries, a Belgian well known in pro cycling circles. Devries had a practice of aging all of Lance's tubular tires in a root cellar. Many dismissed this practice as a waste of time; nevertheless, Armstrong, known for turning over ever stone in search of that final edge, made sure all his race tires came from "the cellar'!
Though not really effective for vulcanized tubular tires (Vulcanized tires use high heat to melt the tire tread onto the casing). If the treads are vulcanized, the rubber compound is most likely high in sulfur content, which does not really cure. Consequently, there is no improvement from storage, and these tires are best used as soon as possible.
However, more expensive tubulars are constructed in a different manner--the treads are not vulcanized to the casing; instead, the treads are hand glued to the tire casing. The high grade rubber compounds found in these tubulars do improve with age, and as the rubber dries out a bit (cures), it doesn't reduce the suppleness meaningfully, but does dramatically improve the cut and puncture resistance of the tire, which in turn, increases tire life.
The trick to aging is to remove the tire from manufacturer's packing box, inflate to approximately half the rated capacity and let hang in a dark, climate controlled environment (think wine cellar) for at least 60 days.