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Zwift - What is it and how to join in...
Over the coming weeks, you will start to see more regular club activity on Zwift. But for those new to virtual training, here is a newcomers guide to riding digitally. I have plagiarised the below guide from road.cc but having gone through the whole Zwift initiation a little over 6 months ago, I am more than happy to answer any questions for those considering dipping their cleat!....
What is Zwift?
Zwift is a way to ride your bike online in a virtual world. And it's booming, with thousands of people riding at any one time. Its most compelling feature is the ability to ride with (or compete against) other people across the world. You can just hook up with your mates, or you can train and race at any level.
To use Zwift, you put your bike on a turbo trainer, you link your setup to your computer, tablet or phone, and you ride online courses – against other people if you like. That’s it in a nutshell. Think of Zwift as an online computer game with your legs controlling your performance.
What equipment do I need?
First and foremost you’ll need a bike, of course, and some kind of indoor trainer. Then you’ll need a device to run the Zwift app on, and some means of sending data from one to the other.
The Zwift app runs on PC and Mac desktop computers and also on Apple TV, iOs and (more recently) Android, so you’ll almost certainly have at least one device already that’s capable of running the software: your laptop, tablet or smartphone will do the job. The bigger the screen, the better the experience!
Riding within Zwift is based on your power. So if you have a power meter on your bike, or you have a smart trainer that can broadcast your power directly, you won’t need anything else. If you have a standard trainer then you can fit a speed sensor, and the Zwift app will take that information and estimate your power based on your speed, and the type of trainer you’re on.
Zwift has calculated a very specific power curve that includes acceleration data for a small range of trainers; currently there are eight. It calls this zPower, and the result is a power reading that responds both to your speed and your acceleration, so if you hit a sprint you’ll get more accurate numbers. A much bigger range of trainers (50+) are supported for estimated power: if you’re holding a certain speed then the power data will be reasonably accurate. If your trainer isn’t on that list you can use a generic profile, but your power will be limited to 400W.
If you have an electronically controlled smart trainer, you can take things to the next level. The resistance of the trainer will increase and decrease as the gradient changes in the game, and if you sit behind another rider you’ll find it a bit easier. Some smart trainers will even simulate road surfaces, so you’ll feel the cobbles or the planks of a wooden bridge as you ride over them. Clever eh?
Smart trainers can be expensive, but not all of them are. For example the Tacx The Neo 2 is £900 but smart trainers such as the Elite Qubo Digital Smart B+ can be had for less than £200 if you shop around. Other turbo trainers from Wahoo, Elite and more will do the job just fine too.
Go to Zwift’s website(link is external) for a full, up-to-date list of compatible power meters, and smart and conventional turbo trainers. There’s a list of supported smart bikes on there too, and even some rollers!
Other equipment
As mentioned above, if you’re not using use a power meter or one of the smart trainers, you need to have a speed sensor attached to your bike – working from the rear wheel, obviously, because your front wheel won’t be moving.
If you haven’t got one already, you can buy a speed sensor for not much (link is external).
Some speed sensors also measure cadence (pedal revolutions per minute). If yours doesn’t and you want it, you can add a cadence sensor. You can also add a heart rate monitor(link is external) if you like; it’s pretty useful to have that data too, and they’re not expensive either.
Smart devices and nearly all computers can talk natively to Bluetooth devices, and many smart trainers and sensors will connect that way. If your trainer or sensors only use the ANT+ protocol, then you'll need a USB dongle for your computer.
Gym fan
One last thing: you’ll really want a decent fan. Because if there’s no wind rushing past you, you'll quickly heat up on an indoor trainer, especially if you’re in a warm spare room and not relegated to the garage or the shed! Floor-standing gym fans and office-style pedestal fans both work well.
Zwift on the cheap: what do you need?
If you want to give Zwift a go, but don't want to spend a fortune, here's some inexpensive gear we'd recommend to get you started. The cheapest way to get going is with Bluetooth sensors, as nearly all laptops, tablets and phones support Bluetooth natively. A heart rate monitor is a useful addition to any setup, so consider that as an option.
Mag Trainer – from £50 on ebay
Bluetooth speed/cadence sensor – £22
Heart rate monitor (optional) – £18
So the minimum setup can cost you under a hundred quid, even factoring in a couple of months' subscription.
Getting set up for Zwifting
For my first foray into the world of Zwift I got this little lot together:
Elite Direto Smart Turbo
10 speed cassette (for direct drive turbo)
Wahoo Tickr Heart Rate Monitor
Cheapo eBay Ant+ USB dongle
PC
Okay, now what?
First, you need to go to Zwift’s website and sign up. It's a paid-for subscription service that’s non-contract. It costs you £12.99 per month to use Zwift.
Once you’ve joined up you need to download and install the Zwift software on your computer, or get the app on your smart device. That’s simple; you just follow the instructions.
Then you launch Zwift, set up your profile, pair up your trainer or sensors (Zwift guides you through it), and you’re good to go. Whether you’re using a smart trainer, a power meter or a speed sensor, it’s pretty simple.
If that all sounds easy, it is. Genuinely, it takes a matter of minutes.
What is Zwift?
Zwift is a way to ride your bike online in a virtual world. And it's booming, with thousands of people riding at any one time. Its most compelling feature is the ability to ride with (or compete against) other people across the world. You can just hook up with your mates, or you can train and race at any level.
To use Zwift, you put your bike on a turbo trainer, you link your setup to your computer, tablet or phone, and you ride online courses – against other people if you like. That’s it in a nutshell. Think of Zwift as an online computer game with your legs controlling your performance.
What equipment do I need?
First and foremost you’ll need a bike, of course, and some kind of indoor trainer. Then you’ll need a device to run the Zwift app on, and some means of sending data from one to the other.
The Zwift app runs on PC and Mac desktop computers and also on Apple TV, iOs and (more recently) Android, so you’ll almost certainly have at least one device already that’s capable of running the software: your laptop, tablet or smartphone will do the job. The bigger the screen, the better the experience!
Riding within Zwift is based on your power. So if you have a power meter on your bike, or you have a smart trainer that can broadcast your power directly, you won’t need anything else. If you have a standard trainer then you can fit a speed sensor, and the Zwift app will take that information and estimate your power based on your speed, and the type of trainer you’re on.
Zwift has calculated a very specific power curve that includes acceleration data for a small range of trainers; currently there are eight. It calls this zPower, and the result is a power reading that responds both to your speed and your acceleration, so if you hit a sprint you’ll get more accurate numbers. A much bigger range of trainers (50+) are supported for estimated power: if you’re holding a certain speed then the power data will be reasonably accurate. If your trainer isn’t on that list you can use a generic profile, but your power will be limited to 400W.
If you have an electronically controlled smart trainer, you can take things to the next level. The resistance of the trainer will increase and decrease as the gradient changes in the game, and if you sit behind another rider you’ll find it a bit easier. Some smart trainers will even simulate road surfaces, so you’ll feel the cobbles or the planks of a wooden bridge as you ride over them. Clever eh?
Smart trainers can be expensive, but not all of them are. For example the Tacx The Neo 2 is £900 but smart trainers such as the Elite Qubo Digital Smart B+ can be had for less than £200 if you shop around. Other turbo trainers from Wahoo, Elite and more will do the job just fine too.
Go to Zwift’s website(link is external) for a full, up-to-date list of compatible power meters, and smart and conventional turbo trainers. There’s a list of supported smart bikes on there too, and even some rollers!
Other equipment
As mentioned above, if you’re not using use a power meter or one of the smart trainers, you need to have a speed sensor attached to your bike – working from the rear wheel, obviously, because your front wheel won’t be moving.
If you haven’t got one already, you can buy a speed sensor for not much (link is external).
Some speed sensors also measure cadence (pedal revolutions per minute). If yours doesn’t and you want it, you can add a cadence sensor. You can also add a heart rate monitor(link is external) if you like; it’s pretty useful to have that data too, and they’re not expensive either.
Smart devices and nearly all computers can talk natively to Bluetooth devices, and many smart trainers and sensors will connect that way. If your trainer or sensors only use the ANT+ protocol, then you'll need a USB dongle for your computer.
Gym fan
One last thing: you’ll really want a decent fan. Because if there’s no wind rushing past you, you'll quickly heat up on an indoor trainer, especially if you’re in a warm spare room and not relegated to the garage or the shed! Floor-standing gym fans and office-style pedestal fans both work well.
Zwift on the cheap: what do you need?
If you want to give Zwift a go, but don't want to spend a fortune, here's some inexpensive gear we'd recommend to get you started. The cheapest way to get going is with Bluetooth sensors, as nearly all laptops, tablets and phones support Bluetooth natively. A heart rate monitor is a useful addition to any setup, so consider that as an option.
Mag Trainer – from £50 on ebay
Bluetooth speed/cadence sensor – £22
Heart rate monitor (optional) – £18
So the minimum setup can cost you under a hundred quid, even factoring in a couple of months' subscription.
Getting set up for Zwifting
For my first foray into the world of Zwift I got this little lot together:
Elite Direto Smart Turbo
10 speed cassette (for direct drive turbo)
Wahoo Tickr Heart Rate Monitor
Cheapo eBay Ant+ USB dongle
PC
Okay, now what?
First, you need to go to Zwift’s website and sign up. It's a paid-for subscription service that’s non-contract. It costs you £12.99 per month to use Zwift.
Once you’ve joined up you need to download and install the Zwift software on your computer, or get the app on your smart device. That’s simple; you just follow the instructions.
Then you launch Zwift, set up your profile, pair up your trainer or sensors (Zwift guides you through it), and you’re good to go. Whether you’re using a smart trainer, a power meter or a speed sensor, it’s pretty simple.
If that all sounds easy, it is. Genuinely, it takes a matter of minutes.
Comments
However, you have reminded me how easy it is so will dust the turbo down!
While i prepare for this mornings club run (currently 0°C out there!).... i think online club runs sound like a great idea...
how does that work????
Will certainly be looking at team entries to races and TTs once we have built up our virtual team up.